Sunday, August 11, 2013

10,591 miles!

We are home.  Got here on Friday - 8/9 around noon after spending the night in Kerrville.  Got up early and cleaned the rv inside and out so all we had to do was unload things when we got home. It's odd being back home.  We start looking for things where they would be in the rv and Jeff and I are both waking up in the middle of the night thinking we are still in the rv (wishful thinking!)

We decided to each write down our top 10 things we remember about our trip; (mine is  a little different - I did the 10 best things about the trip)

Jeff:
Ten things about the trip I will remember
1. Spending up lots of up close and personal time with the whole family
2. Our National Parks and all the great scenery
3. Seeing old friends and family in Alaska
4. The pollution in Canada
5. The dry states and the poor suffering livestock and wildlife
6. Our terrible road conditions
7. Seems to be plenty of water for fracking wells
8. The high number of people living in trailers and mobile homes
9. The bears, buffalo, whales and other wild critters
10. The ferry trip

Renee:
10 Best Things about our trip – in no particular order
  1. Visiting our National Parks – especially Arches National Park 
  2. Spending time together as a family 
  3. Taking the Alaska Marine Hwy on a portion of the Inside Passage 
  4. Waking up somewhere new almost every day 
  5. Seeing old friends and visiting with family 
  6. Seeing Jade and Mya learn so much about everything along the way 
  7. Learning so much myself about the areas through which we traveled(Thank you Google!) 
  8. Seeing so much wildlife: buffalo, bears, birds, chipmunks, herons, and so many others. 
  9. Texting with my sister in Alaska as we traveled along our routeJ 
  10. We covered 11 states and 2 Canadian Provinces on this trip! 
    I started planning next year's route about 4 nights before we
    got home. Got to fill in that WHOLE map! 
  11. Realizing the importance of the phrase: “I wonder . . .
Jade:
10 things I remember
#1Carlsbad Caverns
#2National Parks
#3The Buffalo
#4The cows and horses
#5Mountain Sheep
#6Whales
#7Mendenhal Glacier
#8Juneau
#9M.V MATANUSKA
#10Getting home

Mya:
Top 10 things about summer
1. The Redwood Forest
2. Arches National Park
3. The deserts
4. Mendenhall Glacier
5. Petrified Forest
6. Painted Desert
7. Bob's campground
8. Playgrounds (at campgrounds)
9. The beach, lake
10. My family

In the words of Willie Nelson, "just can't wait to get on the road again"!!!


Thursday, August 8, 2013

WWWAAAAA!

I DON'T WANT TO GO HOME!!!  (That's all I've got to say - at the moment)

Wednesday, August 7, 2013

The long way home

I guess we've been on the way home since we left Alaska but today it really seems like it.  We are camped in Ft. Stockton, Texas - the same place we stayed our first night out on June 9th. Different RV park though - we've learned some things along the way - lol!

Nevada highways
Sunset in Beatty, Nevada with Venus in the sky.
We ended up not traveling "the loneliest road" - at least not the whole thing.  We looked at the map again and realized that the elevation changes would be a challenge (putting it mildly).  We found a chart on Google that showed the elevations changes (thank you Google! - again!) and there were about 5 and in a fairly short stretch of road. So we headed south after Carson City (nice place!) and drove southeast across Nevada.  My goodness, that is one barren stretch of road.  I think it's probably the "saddest" stretch of road we've seen.  Utah had some amazingly dry barren stretches where even the cows looked sad, but this was much worse.
Hoover Dam on the border between Nevada and Arizona
There is a reason that area is owned mostly be the government (Nellis Air Force Base aka "Area 51"). No one else wants it!

One of the remaining Burma Shave signs on the original
Route 66.
We stayed at a surprisingly pleasant little RV park in Beatty, Nevada. We saw a bunch of burros wandering in the area.  The owner of the campground told us they are wild.  They are descendants of the burros that were used "back in the day" when gold mining was big in the area.  Apparently, they breed like rabbits (his words!).  Many were abandoned there when the miners left and they've been there ever since.  We could hear their distinctive braying sound during the night. What we found disturbing all across Nevada are the current mining operations.  We saw huge tailing pits - giant scars on the desert.  Made us wonder how polluted the water was in the area.

Heading into Arizona we drove some of the original Route 66 (and got the t-shirt!!).  Highway 40 follows a lot of the original road but we actually drove some of the remaining original route.  From the condition of the road, Highway 40 hasn't had much upkeep since then!!  Some rough road going through the area.  We got a tip from the lady that ran the Seligman KOA about a great restaurant in Winslow, Arizona (remember the Eagles song?? - "Standing on the corner in Winslow, Arizona, such a fine sight to see, . . .") called La Posada so we stopped there for lunch.  It's the "last great railroad hotel" built in 1929 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. We had an amazing lunch in the Turquoise Room.

The Tepees in the Painted Desert
We added another National Park to our list, the Petrified Forest and Painted Desert in Arizona. So beautiful. One of our favorite stops on the drive through the park were the "Tepees".  These cone shaped hills are blue and purple and grey because of the minerals (iron, copper, manganese) in the ground.  The petrified trees are 225 million years old, older than the big dinosaurs.  There was creature called a phytosour that lived back then - looked like a giant alligator.  Amazing stuff!

A petrified tree - beautiful!
They call this one "old faithful" - one of the biggest of the
remaining petrified trees -part of the "Rainbow Forest"
Our journey from Arizona into New Mexico was a lot different than we expected.  We took back roads and threaded our way through the Apache and Gila National Forests.  During this part of the trek we managed to summit 8,550 ft - the highest elevation on our trip.  Beautiful forests with little communities scattered along the route.  Always makes us wonder what people do for a living in these places.  We decided to hang our hats at the Las Cruces KOA for the evening and what an excellent choice.  Las Cruces has about 100,000 people and sits at about 4000 ft.  It's surrounded by low lying mountains and the view is fabulous.  I'd have to say that New Mexico was one of our favorite states in our 14 state journey.  The high desert is great because even though it gets hot, it's a dry heat (not kidding - it's awesome).  Makes a lot of difference from the humidity at home. But this morning when we got ready to go and Jeff disconnected the water hose, he noticed the filter was BLACK!  It was filled with some kind of sediment - looked like bits of coal.  So a beautiful place, just don't drink the water - lol!

It's Fido!!  One of the creatures that lived 225 million years ago.

Driving into Texas we passed through El Paso.  I'd always heard of this place as "the armpit of Texas" but I'd have to disagree.  It has the same beautiful mountains and open spaces that we saw in Las Cruces.  What was shocking is that we could actually see that FINE border fence our government has spent so much time and money on.  When you see it, you realize just how ridiculous the whole idea is - what a total waste of OUR money.  (Okay - I digress - I'll get off my political soap box.)  We stayed on I-10 the whole time but were surprised that we had to stop at a "Border Patrol" station in Sierra Blanco (which is in the U.S).  They had dogs with them (scared Mya to death, Jade wanted to pet them).  I figure they were letting the dogs sniff all the big rigs to see if they were carrying drugs or people.  Who knows??  But it was curious.  All we saw on the trucks where white and yellow onions - huge bags of them!

We told our housesitters we wouldn't be home until Friday so we are going to lollygag tomorrow - stop at Kerrville for one last night out before we head home.  I asked Jeff tonight how he felt about going home and he said he has mixed feelings, as do I.  On one hand this has been an amazing adventure; on the other hand it will be nice not moving every day.  He got a message on his cell phone today from Jade's school reminding us about "market day" - the prep day for middle schoolers - ACK!!!  Don't know if I'm ready for it but it will happen, ready or not!!



Friday, August 2, 2013

Land of the BIG TREES!

Lighthouse on the misty Oregon coast.
How does one get so tired just riding in an RV?  Maybe it's from gripping the armrests on the curves?!?!  The last few days have been amazing traveling on Hwy 101 through southern Oregon and northern California.  The crowds finally dispersed as we passed Waldport (about 1/2 way down the Oregon coast) and the trees thinned so we could actually see the ocean.  So rugged and beautiful.  The foggy/misty conditions really contributed to the magical quality of the journey - very otherworldly.  
Misty Oregon Coast

Into the BIG woods
We crossed into California mid-day on Wednesday and were so excited to be heading into the Redwoods!  Jeff saved the day when he reminded us that we needed to stop at the visitor's center to get our National Park passports stamped and buy the sticker.  When we stepped out of the RV we thought we would freeze!!  It was 54 degrees and on top of that, the wind was blowing.  Chiillllyyyy!   Karen, at the visitor's center gave us a good tip for seeing the best parts of the forest.  We took the Newton-Drury Scenic route instead of the main Hwy 101.

 There really are no words to describe what it's like being in the forest with all those huge trees. We stopped at one pullout to take pictures and I said to Jade, "listen".  And she said, "what?"  I asked her what she heard and she looked at me puzzled.  I said, "that's right, nothing".  It was completely and totally quiet - no cars, no people, not even any birds singing.  It was heavenly.  I told Jeff that when I get stressed out at work, that's going to be my new "happy place" I go to in my mind - lol!!
The trees go up, and up, and up . . . 

Even Jeff looks tiny!

This sign says it all - "slow down or else!"
We took tons and tons of pictures but there is just no way a picture can convey the size of the trees.  Just standing beside them is awe-inspiring. To think they have survived and continued to grow for so long.  The second day we traveled along the "Avenue of the Giants" and saw even bigger trees.  But this is a well-traveled route and lots of little towns along the way and lots of people.  Not the serenity we experienced on the previous portion. Today we headed east.  Jeff wanted us to see Lake Tahoe since we were in the neighborhood and have to head east sometime.  We did have to pass through Sacramento and did manage to do so unscathed.  We read that Lake Tahoe was at 7,000+ ft so I was a little concerned about the RV making it okay but we did similar elevations coming through Canada and survived.  (The highest point is 7382 ft just before you head into Tahoe.)  We encountered lots of traffic - way more than we expected.  I thought Tahoe was this quiet little spot in the woods - NOT!!  A tourist mecca:-(  But the lake is beautiful - so blue, and it's huge.  But the beach looked like Waikiki:-(  We really are "sticks" people.  It's nice to experience it but I'm glad we only reserved one night. Too many people.

It's supposed to get to 36 degrees tonight. Mountain climate.  Tomorrows journey is into Carson City, Nevada and then Hwy 50 (the loneliest road in America) toward Great Basin National Park on the border of Nevada and Utah.  Hope the "BOODWA" continues to put up with the hills and valleys!  We only have one week left on the road:-(  The girls were having a hard time understanding where we were and when we would be home so we told them they had "8 more sleeps" and then they would be home.  They CHEERED!!!  Aunt Tina said to tell them to click their heels together and repeat, "there's no place like home,  . . . " - lol!!  But we still have 7 more days of adventure and we're going to treasure every moment of it!! At least Jeff and I will:-)